I live for surfing pictures. I live for the way the wave breaks into a barrel and the eager stare of the surfer, studying the ocean water. I live for the pureness of the water and the calmness of the fish. I live for the way the water has no bad intentions, it will swallow you up and spit you out if need be, but if you’re lucky enough to ride the wave, the gnare effect will take over and you can truly hang loose. I live for them.